Christmas Birdhouse

Today I thought I would share this fabulous Tando kit, that I took for the Thursday group to make a few weeks ago.  The Tando kits are fabulous, being laser cut greyboard (some are MDF), and very easy to put together, even for a complete beginner.  So I thought if I talked you through the process of how to decorate this particular one, you might be inspired to have a go yourself. Don't be limited though as the greyboard can be painted (even emulsion), inked and/or papered, and you could add a glaze,eg a crackle finish.
I began by drawing around all the pieces that I wanted to add paper mats to.  If you notice, on the second picture of the front, back and sides pieces, I have continued the line where I had drawn around the slot, where they will criss cross to make 3D when you put it altogether.  This was because, I felt it would be too fiddly to try and cut around the tabs and slots, so decided these outer pieces of the bird house would be simply painted. Then you will notice I have drawn a cutting line a couple of millimetres in from the original line. It is important to draw a line (which you can easily erase until you are happy with it's accuracy) as trying to trim off a little freehand, will lead to wasted papers.
I then painted 2 coats of acrylic paint on all edges that would show, both sides, or the whole where necessary-I used Kaisercolour Magenta. ***SEE Do's & Dont's further down *** Cut out paper pieces whilst paint is drying.
I wanted to add sparkle to some of my elements.  I used the DecoArt glamour dust, as this has a unique quality that will dry with the paint (you need to add it whilst the second coat is still wet and leave to dry completely before you shake off the excess).  The alternative would be to use a spray adhesive when the paint is dry, and then add glitter.  Trying to add using normal glue, will lead to uneven bumps.

The only other decoration I did, which is completely optional, was to roll the dowel on an inked 'texture' stamp (I used the Kaisercraft Script stamp, but on another one used the music, and one Thursday crafter used the crackle stamp.  I also stamped the bird and the wing, just to give it some texture, and added a mini crystal for the eye (those that they use for nail art are a perfect size)
Assembly is pretty straight forward, some of the larger kits do come with basic instructions and pictures, but the birdhouse is a simple one.  

DO'S & DONT'S:
DO-Draw around all pieces that you wish to add paper mats to, and apply a thin layer of PVA to attach them to the greyboard when the paint is dry, or ink the edges afterwards if you are not painting, when the glued mats are completely dry.
If using Glamour dust, paint the underneath 2 coats first, then add the glamourdust  to the second coat of the upper surface, whilst the paint is still wet. Allow to dry thoroughly, between coats.
Remember to paint/ink all areas that will show when assembled, that are not covered in other ways.
DON'T-Saturate the greyboard (it is a paper product), or it will warp, or worse still, cause disintegration.  A couple of thin coats of a good acrylic paint shoud be sufficient and reduces the likelihood of brush marks.
Don't hold pieces by an area that is still wet with paint.  Acrylic paint is tacky by nature, and your fingers will stick to it, and consequently pull some of the greyboard surface away whilst you try and 'unstick' yourself.

And this was the original 'for instance' I took for the group to be inspired by.  Completely different colours, gives it a completely different look...duh!!! .... nothing like stating the obvious ha ha ha!!!!
Stock is extremely limited, so don't delay if you are interested in making one, or indeed another of the Tando kits...they are filed under 'Things to Decorate' on the website www.divinecrafting.co.uk

Catch up soon, bye for now
Christine

Light Up The House

 I have made this simple easel card for an uncle who is about to celebrate his birthday.  Whilst you would think that a lighthouse evokes seaside and summer, they are there all year round and make fabulous cards for gentlemen.  This particular card is using one of the very detailed Michael Powell stamps, and coloured in using ProMarkers......don't look too carefully as it isn't as neat as I would have liked, but I'm pleased with the overall effect.

If you've not made an easel card before, they are very simple, but effective.  The main 'rule' is to fold a card in half, then fold the front half, in half again, creating the easel, and use foam pads to add a greeting to the inside, to anchor the front face behind.......

 This is the side view.
So.....I began with a sheet of A4, trimmed to approximately 15 cms across the width.  I scored this in half, making roughly a 15cms square (it is slightly under one way as an A4 is not 30 cms long)  The front half was scored and folded again (i. 2 quarters approx 7.5 cms each)  The waste from the A4 ca be used to make a matt for your picture and also your greeting tag.

 I doubled mounted mine, selecting another colour that toned with the patterned paper I had used.  When you stick your picture matt down, remember to only apply adhesive to lower part and stick it to the very first quarter, otherwise it won't stand up as in the picture above.

This is folded flat for posting.
When colouring I selected colours to compliment the patterned paper I had used, so that it all toned.

Inside I stamped a verse onto some more paper, and edged with the same ink I had stamped everything else in.  I stamped a greeting onto some more paper and double mounted that as I had my picture.  I then applied 3D foam pads and positioned it towards the bottom of the back face.  By using the 3D foam, it raises the greeting making it a better anchor.  You might wish to hold your picture at the angle you want it to stand up, to give you an idea of where to place the greeting.  If you move it further up the card, it will stand more upright.  There is no right or wrong, it's what you are happiest with.
Christine

Paint v Paint

 Well hello everyone.  This week's blog is something completely different to the norm, but when I started blogging, it was to share crafting knowledge....which generally means that I show you how to achieve a particular project or technique to develop your skills.  However, as I was painting last week and becoming quite frustrated with the product I was using, it did make me think that if I was having some difficulties and wasn't completely pleased with all the effort I had put in, then what would you feel like.

 
Now I have been using acrylic paints for many, many years (decades in fact) for a variety of craft projects....art journalling, 3D kits, altered art, model and scenery making, techniques ie. johnsons floor polish and tissue on acetate (I might have to blog about that another time) painting etc. I have tried, and collected over the years, a vast array of colours by many of the most reputable brands.  At times I have invested in the whole collection of colours by a particular range, at great cost, only to be disappointed when they dried up far too quickly.  What a waste !!  But the reason I decided to write this blog, was because the paint I had chosen to use (a very reputable branded one), because the colour was the best match to the project I was making, soon became evidently clear was a huge mistake.  I was painting the components of some 3D kits, which normally requires two coats.  After three coats I am still disappointed by the streaks and brush marks that don't seem to be going anytime soon.  Rather than dwelling on the brands I have been disappointed in, I thought I would share what I have found works for all my type of needs, and explain why.

Kaisercolour
Kaisercolour acrylic paints are manufactured by Kaisercraft in Australia and I sell them at £2.45 a (75ml) tube.  These are fabulous fluid acrylic paints that glide on with ease....and I find two coats are ample on greyboard and MDF projects, drying to a fabulous smooth finish.  I use these in all my workshops so that attendees are ensured of achieving fantastic results.  There are an abundance of colours, and I only stock a minority...but hopefully I will add more next year.  If I am applying Kaisercolour with a brush, rather than squeezing from the tube, I squirt some into a mini jam jar (you know the ones that you get at breakfast in a hotel).  Any unused paint will remain in the jar, and won't dry up once you've put the lid on.  If I am journalling and applying the paint with a baby wipe, I do of course, take it directly from the tube.  TOP TIP: don't leave residual paint on the open end of the tube, wipe it before you place the top back on so the top can be easily removed when you next come to use it.  This is the same for all acrylics, as they are tacky by nature and will set hard.

JoSonjas
These also are 75 ml tubes manufactured in Australia by Chroma Limited.  They retail at £3.99 and become a little more expensive for the deeper pigment colours.  Again these are fabulous fluid colours that are so easy to apply and enable fantastic results.  Some of mine I have had for more than 10 years, in some colours that I don't use too often, and are still as fluid as the day that I purchased them.  They are readily available in the UK.

Yes, this is a purely subjective but honest review of what I feel are the two best branded 'all rounders' on the market today.  Other branded ones are fit for purpose in many aspects of crafting, but I feel are a let down when it comes to 3D and modelling, perhaps because they are of a thicker consistency and therefore not as fluid.  I know some of you may think, acrylic paint is all the same and you can pick up bigger tubes in the pound shop....but you won't get the same results.  So next time you are getting frustrated because you aren't achieving the results that you had hoped for, or they are taking much longer and more coats, just give Kaisercolour or JoSonja paints a go....you won't regret it.

Christine

Diagolope Mini Album

For this project I used one of the fabulous Judikins templates.  This particular one is the 'Diagalope' - a diagonal envelope made from A4 (trimmed 12 x 12") double sided papers.  The templates are really sturdy to draw around for cutting out your shape, and have scoring channels to ensure accuracy.  Before this purchase (and it was the grand total of £1)  I used to do this from a  template I had made myself, after seeing something similar in a craft magazine.


 

I chose 5 double sided papers (they need to be double sided because you do see some of the inside), as I required 5 envelopes for my particular album...but the number of envelopes can vary depending on what you are wanting it for, you may only do one.  Following the simple instructions, I cut my 5  pieces, and sealed down one end, which was to become my opening for the tags, overlapped and sealed, the diagonals (**it is important to ensure all overlaps are consistently done in the same manner), then sealed the other flap to close it, being careful to only glue the outer edge of the flap.







Next I made a template to ensure all the punched holes at the spine edge (the sealed end), all fell in the same place. The height of each envelope is 11 cms, and I wanted the holes to be 1.5 cms away from the outer edge of the spine.


 

I marked and punched, 5 evenly spaced holes - I prefer an odd number as it allows you to weave the ribbon through in a running stitch manner, then turn and make it into a back stitch, tying off at the top. I have on occasion, simply tied different ribbons through each set of holes, having multiple knots/bows at the side, rather than one at the top.

Using this template to line up with each envelope, I used it as a punching guide. 

The tags inside are 21cms x 10.5 cms.  I used a corner rounder then lightly inked around each tag, front and back.
As this project is for a 50th birthday, I stamped individual letters on each of the 5 tags (now you know why I did 5 envelopes).
 
I have started  journalling, but need to find more photos to create a timeline.  There is lots of space for both photos and anecdotes etc. - both sides of the tags as well as the envelopes themselves...but I have a little time to do this.

 

I threaded the ribbon, as described above, and added a simple '50' to the front.

This is another one I did some time ago, but haven't found anyone to send it to yet....I have boxes full of 'for instances' !!
I used lots of different papers, out of the same collection, rather than alternating 2 different ones, as I have above.  I used a narrow organza ribbon, and was able to add beads to dangle and create interest.

The tags on this have more of the paper collection matted onto them to create panels for photos, or rubber stamped images.  I also punched holes in the ends of the tags and threaded ribbon through.

I have been known to add a punched scalloped circle to use as a 'pull tab', instead of the ribbon, but as you can see from my first example, you could simply leave the tags as they are.

Whatever you decide, enjoy creating.
Christine

12 x 12 Fold Out

You may remember back in April I did a few weeks of 'fancy folds' using 12 x 12" papers.  Some of them are tea bag folding on a large scale, whilst others are simply creasing and cutting.  This is a simple one, which anyone could have a go at with excellent results....you don't have to be a craft expert at all.

Begin with a sheet of 12x12" paper - it doesn't have to be double sided, although my finished example (....yes I did make a completed sample for you...ha ha) I used a double sided sheet.  You will need to score one quarter of it's width on all four sides, ie. 3 inches in from the outer edge on all sides.  Place the opened sheet in front of you and decided which is the top and bottom (this may not make a difference, depending upon your pattern).  On the side pieces only, cut along the 3 inch lines at the top and bottom, until it meets the 3 inch line running vertically - see photos on the left.

If you wish to make holes to thread your ribbon/cord through, it is best to do it now.  I have on this one, but the finished sample below, I simply tied some ribbon around.  If you do punch holes, in the centre of the side panels, you may decide to reinforce these with eyelets, but it isn't necessary.

To close up, fold in the two smaller squares at the top and bottom, then fold these sections into the centre, then finally close the sides in (gatefold style).

To decorate, do so in it's opened out, flat position.  You might decide to add photographs for a special birthday, anniversary or other occasion.  You could add coordinating mats and stamp on panels to decorate, or if you are a computer whiz, why not find a nice verse to split between the panels.

Voila !!!  The decorated and finished sample :) 
Completely closed and tied with ribbon.

On the side panels I just stamped some flourishes, trying to mimic some of the paper's design.  The white panels are 2x5", the mustard 2 1/4 x 5 1/4", the blue 2 1/2 x 5 1/2".  The mustard and blue were colours I selected as they appear in small amounts in the colour palette of my chosen paper.

The smaller square 'reveal', I decided not to use the white, and I swapped the blue and mustard around.  Stamping a similar design on all 4 mats, and simply rotating each of them to form a symmetrical pattern, ensures it looks pleasing to the eye of the observer.
Blue  2 1/4 x 2 1/4", mustard 2 1/2 x 2 1/2"

I simply added a verse to the main large panel. Mat sizes: white 5x5", mustard 5 1/4 x 5 1/4", blue 5 1/2 x 5 1/2"

Again, images were stamped on the top and bottom panels **these do have a direction if you are using a scene style stamp as I have done.  These are exactly the same sizes of mats as the side panels.

There is plenty more scope to add more mats, or photos and some journalling, should you wish.

...... Happy Crafting everyone,
Christine